There are a lot of fallacies regarding Credit Reports and Credit Scores, and I am sure that you can all tell me at least 2 different ones...
Did you hear the one about?
“When I turn 35 years old, my debts are wiped clean”
“When I apply for new credit it won’t affect my credit score”
“The more debt I have, the better my score”
“My credit score is only affected by my payment history”
Well, let’s try and dispel some of the fallacies with a few facts……….
Attachment 1 - Sample letter for requesting a credit report
Attachment 2 - Sample dispute letter
There are 2 types of Credit Reports:
Investigative Credit Report
An Investigative Credit Report may be requested on you, usually by the following:
Mortgage
Insurance providers
This report contains much more detailed information on you.
Should an Investigative Credit Report be requested for you, the credit bureau MUST inform you directly and you have the right to add your comments to the report, before it is forwarded to the requestor.
2. Consumer Credit Report
It is the Consumer Credit Report we are discussing in this issue.
A Consumer Credit Report details, in depth information about your credit history, and will also include:
Your full name
Any alias’s that you have used
Social Security Number
Current address
Previous addresses
Your Credit Report may also contain:
Your phone number
Age/date of birth
Your employer’s details
Your Credit Report should not contain:
Race
Color
Sex
National origin
Martial status
Political persuasion
Creditors, insurance providers, employers and any other person you authorize have access to it.
Your Credit Report reveals your Credit Score (see section 4 – What is a Credit Score?)
There are 4 main areas:
Your level of debt
How much money you owe to individual creditors (including mortgages, car payments etc)
Your bill-paying habits
Did and do you pay on time, do you have delinquent accounts, did the creditor send your account to a collection agency and have you filed for bankruptcy.
Length of credit
How long have you had credit, obviously a 20 year old has a shorter length of credit history than a 30 year old
Enquires made about you
How many credit applications you have made, irrespective of whether you obtain the credit, it is the number of times you applied that is detailed here and don’t forget, this includes those made by insurance providers and employers.
Each of the 3 credit bureaus report the above information in a different ways, so you need to review the individual reports carefully, in order to ensure accurate information is documented.
This information will stay on your credit report for 7 years, from the date of the last activity.
If you file for chapter 7 bankruptcy, this will stay on your credit report for 10 years and it is also on your public records, which every body has access to.
I am sure that you have all been inundated with offers of a “free credit report” either through email, phone calls or the good old fashioned US Mail.
The best 2 ways to get your credit report are either:
Obtaining via the Internet
Be careful of which service you order through, they may charge you for the service or they may state the service is free, however, even if it is free, they will ask you for your credit card details and then you need to remember to cancel this within 30 days or you will be charged for the service.
One advantage of obtaining your credit report this way, is that you may get direct access to it either via the web site or be having it emailed directly to you.
2. In writing a letter directly to the credit bureaus.
You need to include the following information:
Your name full name (Sr., Jr., III etc)
Any aliases that you have used
Current and past addresses for the last 5 years
Social Security number
Birth date
Telephone number
Your credit reports will be mailed to you and may take up to 6 weeks to arrive.
Which ever way you prefer, you must obtain a copy from all 3 credit bureaus:
Equifax - www.equifax.com
call: 800-685-1111 or write:
P.O. Box 740241, Atlanta, GA 30374-0241
Experian - www.experian.com
call: 888-EXPERIAN (397-3742) or write:
P.O. Box 2002, Allen TX 75013
Trans Union - www.transunion.com
call: 800-888-4213 or write:
P.O. Box 1000, Chester, PA 19022
The reason for this is simple, different creditors report to different bureaus and so each report may contain different information about your history, by getting a copy for all 3 credit bureaus, you will get the full picture of what is being reported about you.
If you purchase a credit report, the price is set by law and will not exceed $9.50. However depending on what other services you purchase with your credit report, the price can vary significantly, so please shop around.
For more information visit www.annualcreditreport.com however, this free copy does not include your important Credit Score.
You are also allowed a free credit report at any time, if the following applies:
You’ve been denied credit, insurance or employment within the last 60 days
You’re on welfare
Your credit is inaccurate because of fraud
Please keep in mind; your free copy does not necessarily include your Credit Score!!!
There are now 2 scoring systems being used
FICO scores range between 350 and 850 points
The FICO score is computed as follows:

Payment History – Contributes to 35% of your score
Account payment information on specific types of accounts (credit cards, retail accounts, installment loans, finance company accounts, mortgage, etc.)
Presence of adverse public records (bankruptcy, judgments, suits, liens, wage attachments, etc.), collection items, and/or delinquency (past due items)
Severity of delinquency (how long past due)
Amount past due on delinquent accounts or collection items
Time since past due items (delinquency), adverse public records (if any), or collection items (if any)
Number of past due items on file
Number of accounts paid as agreed
Amounts Owed – Contributes to 30% of your score
Amount owing on specific types of accounts
Lack of a specific type of balance, in some cases
Number of accounts with balances
Proportion of credit lines used (proportion of balances to total credit limits on certain types of revolving accounts)
Proportion of installment loan amounts still owing (proportion of balance to original loan amount on certain types of installment loans)
Length of Credit History – Contributes to 15% of your score
Time since accounts opened
Time since accounts opened, by specific type of account
Time since account activity
New Credit – Contributes to10% of your score
Number of recently opened accounts, and proportion of accounts that are recently opened, by type of account
Number of recent credit inquiries
Time since recent account opening(s), by type of account
Time since credit inquiry(s)
Re-establishment of positive credit history following past payment problems
Types of Credit Used – Contributes to 10% of your score
Number of (presence, prevalence, and recent information on) various types of accounts (credit cards, retail accounts, installment loans, mortgage, consumer finance accounts, etc.)
For more information on Fico scores visit: www.myfico.com
What is the average FICO credit score for Americans?
Good question!! The answer depends on who you ask, let’s look at the following scores taken from the following web sites August 2006:
www.myfico.com state that the median credit score is 723
www.nationalscore.com state that the average credit score is 675
On 2 different web sites, the difference in the average score is 48 points, that can make a big difference when looking for new credit rates, just take a look at the example below.
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This example was taken from myfico.com web site, and it demonstrates how your credit score can affect your monthly mortgage payments, this is for a $216,000 loan over a 30 year fixed mortgage |
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Fico Credit Score Range within: |
Interest Rate |
Monthly payment |
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760 – 850 |
6.21% |
$1,324 |
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680 – 699 |
6.6% |
$1,380 |
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620 – 639 |
7.79% |
S1,554 |
As you can see, the lower your score the higher the interest rate and that means you will pay a lot more for the same value loan.
In the example above, the person with the lower credit score of 121 points means that they will pay:
$230 A MONTH MORE & that’s $2,760 A YEAR
What could you do with extra money?
VANTAGESCORE ranges between 500 and 990 points
VantageScore was developed using information from all three credit bureaus, and uses the 6 criteria described below. The result creates a credit score consistency across all three bureaus, plus a level of predictive power.
The VANTAEGSCORE is computed as follows:
Payment History – Contributes to 32% of your score
Details the history of your payment behavior. Whether your payments have been delinquent, derogatory or satisfactory.
Utilization - Contributes to 23% of your score
The percentage of money that you owe, or that you have used. A large % of your available credit balances are seen as a credit risk.
Balances – Contributes to 15% of your score
This is the amount of recently reported balances, for both current and delinquent accounts. Balances that have increased recently can indicate a credit risk.
Depth of Credit – Contributes to 13% of your score
The length of your credit history and what types of credit you have/had. A long credit history helps give more information into how you manage your credit, and can have a positive effect on your VantageScore. They also look for a mix of various types of credit, such as credit cards, credit cards, auto loans etc.
Recent Credit – Contributes to 10% of your score
The number of credit applications and inquires made. Applying for a number of new accounts recently can indicate a credit risk.
Available Credit – Contributes to 7% of your score
The total amount of available credit you have. Low balances can demonstrate good credit management and a low risk. High balances can indicate potential overuse and can have a negative impact on your score.
Scorecards were scaled consistently across each credit reporting company to create a score range from 501-990 that accommodate natural A, B, C, D, and F grade intervals. Note that there is no E grade.
901 – 990 = A
“Super Prime”
If you are within this group, you will be in the top 11% of the population and viewed as very low risk. Which means that you will probably get the best rates and offers from lenders.
801 – 900 = B
“Prime Plus”
In this range you are seen to have good money management and are in the top 40% of the population. Lenders will offer “good” rates and offers to people in this range.
701 – 800 = C
“Prime”
You are in the top 60% of the population and seen as “creditworthy”. You may get reasonable offers from lenders but some may want to review your credit history more in depth and may require additional documentation from you.
601 – 700 = D
“Non Prime”
In this range you are within the LOWEST 38% of the population and will be viewed as a high risk by lenders. Lenders may offer you credit but it will be at less favorable rates.
501 – 600 = F
“High Risk”
You are in the LOWEST scoring 19% of the population, and viewed as a VERY RISKY GROUP. Many lenders will NOT extend credit to you. Other may extend credit but may require security deposits and your interest rates may be higher in order to compensate for the high risk.
Please note:
A score takes into consideration all these categories of information.
The importance of any factor depends on the overall information in your credit report.
For some people, a given factor may be more important than for someone else with a different credit history. In addition, as the information in your credit report changes, so does the importance of any factor in determining your score.
Your score only looks at information in your credit report.
However, lenders look at many things when making a credit decision including your income, how long you have worked at your present job and the kind of credit you are requesting.
Late payments will lower your score, but establishing or re-establishing a good track record of making payments on time will raise your score
Below are some ways to help you keep a good score:
Pay your bills on time
Keep your Debt-to-Income level low, read June’s editions of Debt End on “Debt-to-Income Ratio”.
Dispute all negative information
Correct inaccurate information
Correct all inaccuracies in all 3 credit bureaus
Make sure all old accounts are closed at YOUR request
Request that all missing positive information credit information be included in your report
Notify in writing your creditors of any change of address
Fill out credit applications all the same
Review your credit report at least once per year
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Time |
Action |
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Early stage Up-to 59 days past due |
Customer is notified that another payment is due; account needs to be brought current.
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Mid stage 60-119 days past due |
Advanced delinquency procedures begin:
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Late stage Over 120 days past due |
Actions of last resort undertaken:
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Even though the creditors put the information onto your report, you are still responsible for ensuring the accuracy – yes, I know, that doesn’t seem to be fair, but unfortunately it’s a fact, so you need to review your credit reports at least once per year, if not more frequently.
Recently after doing just a small survey, we found that over 80% of the people sampled had either incorrect or inaccurate information on their credit reports, so it can happen to you.
Mistakes are made, everyone is human and so your credit report may contain incorrect and/or inaccurate information about you, by someone making a processing or typographical error.
It can also help identity if you have been a victim of Identity Theft – Americas fastest growing crime
Your report may show that you have accounts on there that you know are paid; yet they are still reporting a balance.
OK, you have got your credit reports and surprisingly your credit report contains either inaccurate or incorrect information, what do you need to do?
In writing, keeping a copy for your records, notify all 3 credit bureaus, detailing what is inaccurate/incorrect and why, you will need to provide evidence/proof to verify your claim.
The credit bureau has 30 days to investigate and respond to you. Information that cannot be substantiated must be removed.
If the disputed information is confirmed as accurate, you can include an explanation to be included in your credit report.
REMEMBER: it is your responsibility to have the information corrected.
If you replied YES, then you are correct.
In addition, lenders may consider co-signed amounts when calculating your debt-to-income ratio before extending YOU more credit.
If the person does not pay the debt:
Then the creditor has the legal right to come after you for payment.
If a co-signed debt goes to collection:
A collection agency may try to collect the debt from you
Institutions can sue you and get a judgment against you for the debt, plus interest and legal fees.
If the person files bankruptcy:
The co-signed debt cannot be part of the person’s bankruptcy application and you become totally responsible for the full repayment of the debt.
Still want to co-sign??
Again, I think we all know several stories of sisters co-signing for brothers, husbands co-signing for wives and friends co-signing for friends, all of whom have been left to repay the debt.
The best advice - don’t do it.
Fallacy: My score determines whether or not I get credit.
Fact: Lenders use a number of facts to make credit decisions, including your FICO score. Lenders look at information such as the amount of debt you can reasonably handle given your income, your employment history, and your credit history. Based on their perception of this information, as well as their specific underwriting policies, lenders may extend credit to you although your score is low, or decline your request for credit although your score is high.
Fallacy: A poor score will haunt me forever.
Fact: Just the opposite is true. A score is a “snapshot” of your risk at a particular point in time. It changes as new information is added to your bank and credit bureau files. Scores change gradually as you change the way you handle credit. For example, past credit problems impact your score less as time passes. Lenders request a current score when you submit a credit application, so they have the most recent information available. Therefore by taking the time to improve your score, you can qualify for more favorable interest rates.
Fallacy: Credit scoring is unfair to minorities.
Fact: Scoring considers only credit-related information. Factors like gender, race, nationality and marital status are not included. In fact, the Equal Credit Opportunity Act (ECOA) prohibits lenders from considering this type of information when issuing credit. Independent research has been done to make sure that credit scoring is not unfair to minorities or people with little credit history. Scoring has proven to be an accurate and consistent measure of repayment for all people who have some credit history. In other words, at a given score, non-minority and minority applicants are equally likely to pay as agreed.
Fallacy: Credit scoring infringes on my privacy.
Fact: Credit scoring evaluates the same information lenders already look at - the credit bureau report, credit application and/or your bank file. A score is simply a numeric summary of that information. Lenders using scoring sometimes ask for less information - fewer questions on the application form, for example.
Fallacy: My score will drop if I apply for new credit.
Fact: If it does, it probably won't drop much. If you apply for several credit cards within a short period of time, multiple requests for your credit report information (called “inquiries”) will appear on your report. Looking for new credit can equate with higher risk, but most credit scores are not affected by multiple inquiries from auto or mortgage lenders within a short period of time. Typically, these are treated as a single inquiry and will have little impact on the credit score.
Attachment 1 – Sample letter for requesting credit report
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MY NAME MY ADDRESS MY PHONE NUMBER SEND 1 COPY TO ALL 3 CREDIT BUREAUS: DATE Dear Sir/Madam,
REQUEST FOR CREDIT REPORT Please provide one FREE copy of my credit report. Name/s: Addresses: Telephone Number: Date of Birth SS#
Yours truly,
SIGNATURE NAME |
Attachment 2 – Sample dispute letter
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Date Your Name Complaint Department
Dear Sir or Madam: I am writing to dispute the following information in my file. The items I dispute are also encircled on the attached copy of the report I received. (Identify item(s) disputed by name of source, such as creditors or tax court, and identify type of item, such as credit account, judgment, etc.) This item is (inaccurate or incomplete) because (describe what is inaccurate or incomplete and why). I am requesting that the item be deleted (or request another specific change) to correct the information. Enclosed are copies of (use this sentence if applicable and describe any enclosed documentation, such as payment records, court documents) supporting my position. Please reinvestigate this (these) matter(s) and (delete or correct) the disputed item(s) as soon as possible. Sincerely,
Enclosures: (List what you are enclosing) |